Prepare to have a core memory unlocked. Imagine cruising around mountain bends, past glaciers, and curving around the shoreline of stunning lakes. You look back on the adventure and think, “Wow, I can’t believe I did that.” Riding the Bernina Express through the Alpine mountains was that experience for me.
When I look out of my window and see a drizzly, overcast Boston, I often recall those memories of electric green fields and impossibly snow-capped mountains in the middle of July. The Swiss countryside is often imagined, but one of those places you simply have to see to believe.
Accessible through the Rhaetian Railway, the Bernina Express train covers 76 miles over the span of about five hours. Read the article for the full guide to the scenic Bernina Express, including booking tips and where to sit.
All Aboard the Bernina Express
The Bernina Express opened to the public in 1973, effectively making available some of the most remote towns and mountain landscapes in the south of Switzerland. While stunning to look at, the rough terrain forced the railway construction to take place in segments, with the total build time taking over six decades to complete.
Now the Bernina Express train runs year-round and travels from Chür in Switzerland to Tirano, Italy. The Bernina Express railway is a 4-hour and 40-minute journey from top to bottom.
Highlights of the Bernina Express
You can’t peel your eyes away from the window while on the scenic Bernina Express train, otherwise you might miss the most precious sights as you pass.
The Landwasser Viaduct is a 213-foot-tall raised bridge that connects the railway between one side of a mountain and a covered tunnel pass.
You’ll also cross through Engadin Valley, a region close to the southern border, where a little more civilization appears. This is known as a winter sports hotspot, where travelers can stay in the quaint towns and enjoy one of the world’s best ski areas.
The most impressive through this journey is the Bernina Pass, at which point the train reaches its highest point and gives you a stunning view of the nearby mountain ranges and aquamarine-colored lakes.
Towards the end of the journey, the train will spin around the Brusio Spiral Viaduct, a raised bridge that travels in a circular motion as you near the Italian border.
The Best Time to Ride the Bernina Express
The Bernina Express operates year-round, and there really isn’t a bad season to take this train trip. Check below for the seasonality changes and choose the best time to visit based on your preference.
Fall: An amazing time to visit the Bernina Express, especially if you are a lover of fall foliage like me. The changing colors are a bit reminiscent of fall in New England.
Winter: Stunning snowy views of the mountains and frozen lakes. This is technically the off-season, so there may be fewer crowds; however, the weather may be cloudy with lower visibility.
Spring: The natural habitat comes alive again in lovely green. The trees flourish, and the grass returns to a vibrant color.
Summer: Considered the high season with more crowds, but you’ll have clear skies on most days with a higher chance of visibility.
What’s It Like on the Bernina Express Train?
The atmosphere is pretty relaxed, and the train itself is not overly elegant. Although the scenery outside is beautiful, the Bernina Express experience is fairly laid back. I booked first-class seats since I was traveling alone and shared a four-seater space with three travelers from Germany. We chatted a bit and mostly oh’d and ah’d at the passing view.
There is no cafe car on board, but there will be waiters coming around for drink and snack orders. If you book first-class tickets, you’ll get a little tin train souvenir filled with individually wrapped chocolates. I ordered a glass of prosecco to go with my Alpine view.
You’re allowed to walk around the train and might find that there are better viewing spots on different cars. Consider the Allegra unit, for example. This train car has unreserved seats, but the windows open. If you’re brave enough, you can stick your head and camera outside for an amazing passing shot.
Difference Between First and Second Class Seats
The first-class tickets have leather seats, more space, and cost more than second-class. First class features a row of two seats, a table of four seats facing each other, and a row of single seats, perfect for solo travelers.
The second-class seats are fabric and less spacious, as there are rows of two seats facing each other. These cars also fit more people than the first-class options.
Both sections have panoramic view windows, power outlets, and free WiFi (although it was shotty in my experience). Keep in mind that you can book either first or second-class tickets, but seats are first-come, first-served. Arrive early for the train so you can get a good window seat.
How to Book Tickets for the Bernina Express
There are a few options for booking tickets for the Bernina Express. It’s usually a good idea to book directly from the source, which in this case is the Rhaetian Bahn (RhB) website.
You can also book a trip through Viator that includes all transportation from Milan.
FAQs About The Bernina Express Train
Riding the Bernina Express isn’t challenging, but it takes a little more effort than simply hopping on and off. There are a few details you might want to know before booking your tickets.
Here are some frequently asked questions about booking the train, the best seats, and what happens when you arrive in Tirano, Italy.
How long does the Bernina Express Railway take?
If you’re starting at the beginning of the Bernina Express railway in Chür, the Bernina Express will take about four hours and 40 minutes to arrive in Tirano. There will be several small station stops along the way, plus a longer stop in St. Moritz, Switzerland.
Alternatively, you can ride the Bernina Express from the opposite direction, from Tirano to Chür. This route takes the same amount of time to go north into Switzerland.
Difference between first and second class seats on the Bernina Express
When booking your tickets on the Rhaetian Railway, you will see two different ticket options: first and second class.
First-class tickets on the Bernina Express Railway:
Leather seats
More space
Two-seaters (perfect for couples and solo travelers, like myself)
Second-class tickets on the Bernina Express Railway:
Fabric seats
Less spacious
More people fit into one car
What are the best seats to book on the Bernina Express Train?
When riding on the Bernina Express, the most action you’re going to see is outside the window. You’ll want to make sure you get optimal seating so you have the best views. If traveling south to Tirano, sit on the right side of the train. If traveling north to St. Moritz or Chur, then sit on the left.
Keep in mind two important things: you can move around the train to get a better view. Even if you don’t get the perfect seat, you will still have photo opportunities.
Also, you cannot reserve seats no matter of whether you bought a first or second-class ticket. Make sure you arrive early if you’re determined to get a window seat.
How much does the Bernina Express train cost?
You can expect to pay around CHF 63 (65 euros) for a second-class ticket and CHF 111 (115 euros) for a first-class ticket on the Bernina Express in Switzerland. Ticket prices vary depending on the type of ticket you purchase and what time of the year you visit.
Is the Bernina Express worth it?
The Bernina Express trail is definitely worth it! I did a solo travel journey on the Bernina Express train during the summer and absolutely loved the experience. Any nature lover would appreciate the natural beauty seemingly written for a fairytale. There are fields full of wildflowers dancing in the wind and grazing cattle with little bells tied around their necks.
The Logistics
You’ll pass by deep divots of valleys and vertiginous snowy mountains, all visible through the 360-degree windows. It’s no wonder that the Bernina Express railway earned its spot among the UNESCO Heritage Sites in 2008. Travelers come from all over the world to see this spectacular railway.
Getting to the Bernina Express from Zürich
To ride this lovely UNESCO-recognized train route, you need to first plan on getting from Zürich to Chür, Switzerland. Chür is a small ski town with the starting point of the train.
The IC3 regional train leaves from Zürich HB (the main train station in the city) and goes directly to Chür in about 1.5 hours. When I arrived in Chür, I was able to schedule the regional train in the morning so that I arrived 30 minutes before the Bernina Express was scheduled to depart.
While I didn’t have a chance to spend any time in Chür, it is a beautiful city with great reviews. Also, the Bernina Express always leaves on time (with the exception of inclement weather).
If arriving 30 minutes earlier sounds more anxiety-inducing than it does efficient, I suggest spending a night in Chür so you can arrive at the train station with plenty of time before the departure.
Getting to the Bernina Express from Milan
You can arrive at the Bernina Express by regional train! Departing from Milano Centrale, the primary train station in the city center of Milan, there is a regional train that brings you all the way up to the city of Sondrio.
The regional train from Sondrio to Milan is quite beautiful as well, with a journey along the edge of Lake Como. You might wish to stop in one of these towns as a fun day trip close to Milan.
A note about the train station in Tirano, Italy
Some travelers will be a bit surprised by this, but Sondrio and Tirano are not the same train stations. Once you arrive in Sondrio, you will need to hop on a bus that will bring you to Tirano (about 30-45 minutes).
As of writing this article, there is some construction in the Tirano train station, so you will need to take a bus from Sondrio to Tirano, where you will disembark and jump on the Bernina Express.
Arrive at the Tirano bus station, which is connected to the main train station by a long tunnel. Walk through the tunnel (or just follow the crowd) and you’ll find Tirano train station at the other end.
